Modeling of Coastal Morphological Processes

Morphology is the study of forms, whether of animals, plants or words; coastal morphology is the study of coastal forms. Some of these forms are hard (like rock) and do not move much. Others, such as beaches, dunes, channels, sandbars, shoals, are made of mud, sand, or even gravel and move all the time. Understanding and predicting these motions are what coastal morphologists try to do.